Tips and how to travel to Iran in 2023

Remember that, in Iran, many popular websites and services are blocked, including Facebook and WhatsApp. Sometimes they block this travel blog too. If you want to browse and use them while you are backpacking in Iran, you must get a VPN and the one I personally use is ExpressVPN, the most reliable one for Iran.
CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ExpressVPN

What used to be a country that everybody believed was filled with danger and nuclear weapon lovers is, today, becoming the destination with the most exponential tourism growth in the world.

From the most hospitable people to the oldest history, stunning architecture, the most desolate deserts, green mountains, islands, and many other things, slowly, travelers are realizing that Iran is the ultimate destination.

However, since it has opened to tourism very recently, traveling in Iran is not that easy, as it presents several difficulties and peculiarities, ranging from strict Islamic rules to credit card issues and even the need to get special travel insurance.

But don’t worry.

After visiting this country twice for more than 2 months, on this blog, I have compiled loads of travel tips for traveling to Iran which will help you to plan your trip easily.

Visa for traveling to Iran

Visa on arrival (VOA) for Iran

Everybody, except for citizens of Canada, UK, US, Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Colombia, Iraq, Jordan, Nepal, Pakistan, Somalia and Sri Lanka, can get a visa on arrival at any of Iran’s international airports.

The only real requirement is to have a valid host contact

During the process of getting your VOA, the authorities may contact your host, whether they are a hotel or a friend. If they can’t contact them, they may make you wait at the airport for a very long time.

Waiting time ranges from 2 to 6 hours

At the very least, you will have to wait for 2 hours at the airport.

On my second visit, I had to wait for more than 5 hours, as I had a brand-new passport and didn’t have a return flight ticket.

How much does the tourist visa for Iran costs?

Prices range from 40€ to 150€, depending on nationality.

I hold a Spanish passport and paid 75€ and I believe that that is the price for the other European nationalities.

But you can easily extend your visa

You can extend it twice for 30 days. This means that you can be in Iran for up to 90 days. Extensions can be arranged in all provincial capitals.

Iran and Israel

For more details regarding the Israeli stamp, read: Avoid the Israeli stamp – FAQ

Iran doesn’t stamp passports anymore – An Iranian stamp on your passport can be an issue, especially if you are traveling to the USA. That’s why they are now giving your visa on a separate piece of paper.

Best time to travel to Iran

Iran is a massive country with many climatic zones, which range from the dry regions of the Persian Gulf to the wetlands of the north-western provinces.

Ideally, the northern mountains should be visited during late spring, summer and early autumn. On the other hand, the classic Persian cities of Esfahan, Yazd, Kashan, and Shiraz can get utterly hot in summer, so winter, spring, and autumn are the optimum months for visiting them.

Moreover, the southern provinces, which include Qeshm Island, Bandar Abbas, etc. should be avoided during the summer months, as temperatures may reach up to 50ºC and the air is extremely humid.

Last, Tehran has extremely cold winters and overwhelmingly hot summers. Therefore, spring and autumn are the ideal months for traveling to Iran.

You can also visit the Persian cities during the summer months, no problem, but just be prepared for the heavy heat!

What to actually do in Iran
From following the classic Persian historical trail to contemplating the magnificent Islamic architecture, trekking, visiting the Persian Gulf Islands, meeting Iranian nomads, making local friends or even making a pilgrimage trip to the city of Mashhad, Iran can be a destination for all types of travelers, both history and adventure lovers.

By the way, keep in mind that the Government of Iran tends to block this kind of travel sites, so 1stQuest may not work when you try to connect from Iran. If this is the case, there are 2 possible solutions:

For more options, check: Best areas to stay in Tehran.

Couchsurfing in Iran

If you are on a budget, you should know that Couchsurfing is very popular in Iran and a great way to get immersed in the local culture, as Iranians are particularly hospitable and you are likely to be treated like a royal guest.

However, bear in mind that some hosts may be extremely intense and may want to be with you at all times.

Useful books to plan your trip to Iran

This is just a selection of a few books but since Iran is such a complex country with so much going on, I have compiled this list containing the best books on Iran, classified into history, novels, and politics.

How to get in Iran

It’s mandatory to have a travel insurance to get your visa on arrival in Iran.
Because of the sanctions, most insurance companies don’t provide coverage for Iran, but IATI Insurance does
Get your exclusive 5% discount if purchasing via this link.

How to travel to Iran by air

If you come by flight, Tehran would be the most obvious destination, as it has a large number of connections from Europe, especially Germany and Turkey. 

Read: Things to do in Tehran in 2 days

Shiraz has also an international airport and there are daily, very cheap flights from Dubai. 

Read: Things to do in Shiraz

How to travel to Iran by land

Iran shares a border with many countries but remember that, if overlanding, a visa is not available on arrival, so you will have to get it in advance.

Iraq – Surprisingly easy (the one I used). See here the full report.

Turkey – Another surprisingly easy border to cross.

Armenia – An easy, friendly border. See here the full report.

Azerbaijan – Also pretty easy. Check Caravanistan for more information. 

Pakistan – A real adventure. See here the full report.

Afghanistan – Apparently, coming from Herat is relatively easy. Warning! In 2021, this border was taken over by the Taliban. For more information, read my Afghanistan safety guide

Turkmenistan – I am really jealous because you managed to get a Turkmen visa.

United Arab Emirates – You can take a ferry from Sharjah to Bandar Abbas.

Iran Travel Guide – What you need to know about money

In Iran, they use the Iranian Rial (IRR) and approximately:

1 USD = 42,350 IRR

The Iranian Rial fluctuation is massive

Make sure to check the current rate just before leaving for Iran because the value is so unstable.

Exchanging money in Iran

Exchange offices are available everywhere and €, USD and GBP are always accepted.

Moreover, there is also the black market, which means that, in all cities, you will always find random people willing to buy your currency.

It is fine to exchange with them but just make sure to count your money twice, as some of them may try to trick you.

Wait, Rials or Tomans?

Since their currency is extremely low, in order to simplify things, most places will tell you the prices in Tomans, which is the same value divided by 10.

In the beginning, it is a bit confusing but you will quickly get used to it.

Foreign credit cards don’t work

Because of the sanctions, you can’t use your international credit card when you travel in Iran, so bring cash.

However, you can buy a local credit card

For people who don’t want to be carrying lots the cash, you can buy a local credit card and top it up. There are quite a few companies, for example, Mah Card Iran Travel.

(Note that I have never tried it but was recommended by a friend). 

The way it works is that you sign up on their website, give your passport details and they will bring your credit card once you arrive at your hotel in Tehran.

You will give them your cash and pay the 20€ service after receiving your card. I didn’t use it but I’ve been told it is a reliable company.

And you can pay by credit card absolutely everywhere

You will be surprised to know that local credit cards are accepted all across the country, including at street food stalls and grocery shops from rural areas.

Entrance fees

Most touristic sites, including mosques, gardens, and archaeological sites, charge between 100,000 and 150,000IR, which is 5 to 10 more times than what the locals pay.

Is it safe to travel to Iran?

Iran is it safe to visit Iran?

That’s it. It is a safe destination with no terrorism and a very low crime rate.

The UK Foreign advice says that you should avoid traveling to Balochistan and the area bordering Iraq. However, I think that this information is totally biased. You should be fine.

In Iran there is no Islamic State

On many occasions, my friends from back home told me: Be careful with ISIS in Iran! I love my friends but this is a very naive comment because, first of all, Iranians are Shia, hence there are no Iranian linked to ISIS. And second of all, ISIS never made it to Iran.

If you aren’t convinced yet, I urge you to read this comprehensive analysis about safety in Iran.

Iran travel tip – Consider getting off the beaten track
I traveled to Iran in 2015 and 2018 and, in only 3 years, things had changed significantly. The classic Persian cities of Yazd, Esfahan, Shiraz, and Kashan are filled with tour groups, overpriced restaurants, and souvenir shops. Local interactions, which usually involve house invitations, are less frequent and rip-offs are common.
However, if you just step slightly out of your comfort zone, experiences with the locals can be totally different. Therefore, I strongly recommend visiting other places near the cities, as well as discovering other provinces, such as Golestan, Kurdistan, or the cities of Tabriz and Mashhad.

Solo female travel in Iran

Iran is an Islamic dictatorship and, at the same time a day-by-day growing tourism destination, so it is not surprising at all that, every day, this Middle Eastern country is attracting more and more travelers, including many solo females. 

Many women have come to me asking for my opinion towards traveling to Iran as a solo female. Well, despite the fact that I am a man and tend to get a very different experience than most women, I don’t know a single lady who hasn’t had a wonderful experience in Iran so, based on their opinions, I can certainly tell that Iran is, definitely, a safe destination for women. 

If you want to know more details about it, I recently interviewed Eveline from Earth Wanderess, who shares her travel expertise about solo female travel in Iran. 

The people and culture

Remember that, in Iran, the internet is censored – including Facebook or WhatsApp. If you want to access them and navigate safely, you must get a VPN (Virtual Private Network) and I strongly recommend ExpressVPN, the one I personally use.
CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT ExpressVPN

Iran is a highly educated society

Iran is the developing country with the largest number of highly educated people I’ve ever traveled to. Even in very rural, remote areas, such as Golestan, I met people who had Ph.D. degrees from Barcelona and Cambridge.

Iranians are not Arabs

People in Iran are not Arabs but Persians, which is a completely different ethnicity.

Nevertheless, it is ethnically diverse

From the Kurds in Iranian Kurdistan to the Turkmens of Golestan and the Arabs from the Persian Gulf shores, in Iran, there are several ethnic minorities.

Hospitality in Iran

Iranians are famous for their hospitality.

Don’t be surprised if someone who you just met 5 minutes ago invites you to his house, a random dude who you never talked to pays for your meal and, basically, everybody treats you like a king.

They love foreigners and are striving for the world to realize that they are a very peaceful society.

Do accept house invitations

You can’t say you have entirely traveled to Iran if you didn’t have a meal or stay at someone’s home.

Just say yes. If you get slightly off the beaten track and having a meal at a stranger’s house is 100% guaranteed.

Wait, what is tarof?

If you are traveling in Iran for long enough and have experienced strong local interactions, the locals will tell you about something called tarof.

Basically, tarof is when a local tries to pay for your meal (or anything else) just because it is in their cultural code but they don’t really want to.

Say no and, if they insist more than 3 times, it means that it was a real invitation.

However, if they back off, it means that it was a bluff, so this is called tarof.

Farsi is the official language

Farsi (or Persian), which has nothing to do with Arabic, is the country’s language.

They also use the Arab alphabet.

Educated people speak English

In major cities, most educated people speak impeccable English and, in rural areas, they will speak the basic stuff.

Officially, the weekend is on Thursday and Friday

Iran follows the official Muslim calendar, so Friday is the official day off and, for most companies and the public sector, Thursday and Friday is the weekend.

Read: Things you need to know before traveling to Kyrgyzstan

Religion and Islamic law in Iran

Most Iranians are Shia

Iran is the country with the largest Shia population.

However, there are Sunni minorities

In Balochistan, Golestan and the Persian Gulf, there are significant Sunni communities.

Iran is an Islamic Republic

Prior to 1979, Iran was ruled by a Shah who was a puppet of the USA and was leading the country to poverty. This led to a massive revolution, the Shah was overthrown and the clerics came to power, founding the Islamic Republic of Iran.

It’s also a religious dictatorship

In Iran, freedom of speech, demonstration, and protest is extremely limited and several rules based on Sharia law apply to everybody, including tourists.

Dressing code for men

You can’t dress in short pants, even when it is 40ºC. Other than that, you will be fine.

Dressing code for women

Women need to wear a headscarf and can’t show either their shoulders nor their curves. This means that you must wear a long, loose dress or skirt over your pants.

And of course, alcohol is illegal

In Iran, alcohol is forbidden and only available on the black market.

For more details, check the Food & Alcohol section.

Even in this situation, many Iranians are not religious at all

Across your journey, you will meet many Iranians from all ages who don’t care about religion at all, more than in any other Middle Eastern country.

This is because, before the 1979 Revolution, Iran was quite secular.

Travel tips for transportation in Iran

It’s mandatory to have a travel insurance to get your visa on arrival in Iran.
Because of the sanctions, most insurance companies don’t provide coverage for Iran, but IATI Insurance does
Get your exclusive 5% discount if purchasing via this link.

Traveling around Iran by public transportation

They go absolutely everywhere and are the preferred choice for locals.

There are two kinds of buses, the budget one and the VIP, which is around 70% more expensive.

Trust me, get the VIP bus

Seriously, the difference between VIP and non-VIP is so huge. VIP buses are extremely more comfortable, have AC and don’t smell. The cheap buses are horrible and, since they only cost a few USD, paying a 70% extra is not a big deal.

Where to buy your bus tickets

It was kind of a pain in the ass to buy them, as local sites don’t accept foreign cards, so you had to ask your hotel (who charges a high commission) or go to the bus station, which is always far away from downtown.

Because of the sanctions, in Iran, most booking sites don’t accept international foreign cards. Before you could book them via 1stQuest but they are not offering this particular service anymore. However, you may still use 1stQuest for visa services, hotels, flights, travel insurance and tours. 

Traveling around Iran by domestic flight

For those who are short on time, there are a lot of domestic flights, connecting most cities in the country.

You can check flight schedules and book your tickets through 1stQuest, and you can get a 5% discount on ALL flights:

With voucher code: ATC-QST

Train is also an option

Some cities have train stations. I personally took a train from Tehran to Gorgan and a 23-hour train from Mashhad to Bandar Abbas. It was pretty cool but not all cities have train stations plus they run less frequently than buses.

Get Snapp for taxis

Snapp is like the Iranian Uber and, as far as I know, it works in Tehran, Esfahan and, perhaps, in other big cities, as well. By default, it is cheaper than regular taxis plus you save all the negotiation hassle.

Metro

Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz, and Mashhad have metro lines. They are cheap, fast and reliable!

Driving in Iran

You can self-drive in Iran, no problem, but just be aware that, like in all the Middle East, people drive like crazy.

Crossing the streets in Iran

For me, the worst thing about Iran is that nobody gives a s*** about pedestrians.

You should know that, when you cross the street, even if you go over a pedestrian crossing, cars will never slow down but will just dodge you. It’s crazy. You should always cross sticking close to a local.

Internet & SIM Card

Wi-Fi sucks

A lot, practically everywhere.

But internet data is good

Wi-Fi sucked so much that, sometimes, I was using my 3G to watch movies.

Get an IranCell SIM Card

In my experience, the staff of IranCell shops speak good English. For just a couple of USD, you will get plenty of GB and calls. I suggest you check their website for the latest plans.

In Tehran, there is an IranCell shop inside Imam Khomeni metro station.

Food and alcohol in Iran

What is Persian cuisine like

Seriously, I could write an entire post about food in Iran. It is quite varied and many provinces have their own local specialties. Usually, most meals will be accompanied by tonnes of rice and bread.

The most popular appetizers have an eggplant base and main courses tend to be meat with gravy. Kebab is a fancy meal they eat outside.

So far, my favorite dishes are bademjan, an eggplant and tomato stew; ghormeh sabzi, a meat stew with plenty of spices and herbs; ash, a breakfast consisting of a vegetable soup with chickpeas, noodles and caramelized onions; and dizi, lamb (or chicken) smashed with tomatoes, potatoes and chickpeas in a clay pot.

Vegetarians will be OK

For breakfast, they will serve you either ash (the vegetable soup) or an omelet with tomato sauce, as well as cheese, watermelon, and nuts.

For lunch and dinner, there are many eggplant-based vegetarian options, lentils, and rice.

Chai?

The tea culture is really strong and a sign of hospitality.

The coffee culture is growing!

One of the differences I noticed on my second trip to Iran is that there were coffee places, serving authentic coffee absolutely everywhere.

It was, of course, pricey compared to any other drink but having breakfast over a good cup of coffee is a real must for me.

Alcohol is only available on the black market

It usually comes smuggled from Armenia or Iraqi Kurdistan.

But you are likely to drink

Once, I was hitchhiking in Golestan when a young couple from Tehran picked me up and offered me vodka shots. Another day, the owner of a café served me a real rum mojito.

I also drank home-made liquor at someone’s house in Shiraz and was offered a beer in Qeshm Island.

As I said, many Iranians are not very religious and, if you hang out with local people, eventually, you will be able to have some drinks.

Some curiosities you will see when traveling in Iran

Nose jobs

You will see that in most major cities, especially in Tehran and Esfahan, a lot of women wear a bandage on their nose. That is because they just came from surgery. Many Persian women have an arched nose and some of them have a bit of complex about it.

The clerics

Those Muslim priests that you see all over Iran are Shia clergy. Most of them wear a white hat, which means that they are normal people.

However, those wearing a black one are, somehow, related to the prophet Mohammed. Within a period of 2 months, I spotted two of them. 

Creepy mannequins

In all bazaars all across the country, clothing shops have extremely creepy mannequins. They tend to be dirty, miss one eye or they have no jaw. I don’t know if the shopkeepers realize how weird this is. 

Drought in Iran

In Iran, lack of rain is a real problem and, across the country, many lakes and rivers, including the river that goes through Esfahan, are completely dry. This is one of the biggest concerns for most Iranians. 

Read more interesting facts about Iran

All guides and articles for traveling in Iran destination

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

You might also like our Pakistan Travel Guide or Azerbaijan Travel Guide.

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East.