Continents like Asia and Europe, as well as the rest of the world, offer various opportunities for holistic living. One such example is Swaswara, located on Om Beach in Gokarna. For a stay in Shekhawati, Piramal Haveli is a recommended option. If you're looking for luxury travel in a pilgrimage city, the Westin Pushkar Resort & Spa is a great choice. Experience the vibrant lifestyle of Lucknow with a stay at Clarks Awadh. To catch a glimpse of Nagpur's heritage, visit Chitnavis Wada, a grand house located in the Mahal area of Chitnavispura in the old city.
This particular Wada stands out among the others as it successfully retains the impressive and nostalgic atmosphere of the prestigious homes. I made my way inside through a gate with an arched entrance and a wooden door. A sign displayed outside revealed its name and location.
When I entered the gate of Chitnavis Wada in Nagpur, I noticed that there were buildings surrounding an open area. It was hard for me to determine whether I was already inside the Wada or still outside because of the layout. The construction on the side of the main door had a distinct colonial feel to it. The wooden blind panels specifically reminded me of structures I had seen in Colonial Calcutta.
The tall trees, which appear to be older than the buildings, are dense in this area. I entered what was referred to as the office. Inside, there is a collection of old wooden furniture, such as palanquins, wooden boxes, writing desks, and wooden bullock carts scattered about. It became clear to me that this is the primary Wada. The structures I observed outside were additional sections that functioned as a guest house during the British era.
I received assistance from a kind man who oversees the location. He provided me with a brochure and requested the staff to unlock the wada for my visit. My expectations were not high, as I anticipated only the presence of beautifully carved wooden pillars within the Wada. Nevertheless, surprises always lie just around the corner. Upon entering the front courtyard, I was delighted to discover the intricate woodwork of the pillars surrounding it.
Chitnavis Wada is a traditional mansion with three courtyards connected in a row. This architectural design, also seen in Shekhawati Havelis, includes a public area in the first courtyard where guests and business associates would visit. In this particular Wada, the first courtyard served as the office space for the head of the family.
Chitnavis was a title given to the chief documentation officer of a king. The Chitnavis Wada, a building in Nagpur, was constructed by Rakhmaji Ganesh Randive, who held the position of Chitnavis for the Bhosle kings. Randive arrived in Nagpur in 1744 CE along with Raghuji – I Bhosle. The Wada is estimated to be around 200 years old, judging by its stylistic details.
Upon entering the initial courtyard of Chitnavis Wada's Deoghar Chowk, I found myself immersed in a vibrant display of paintings. Although the courtyard itself is now covered with wood, the surrounding corridor still retains its calming mud flooring.
On the walls, there were beautiful paintings that portrayed the life of Krishna, who I later found out is the deity of the family. These paintings showcased scenes from famous stories like Mahabharata. Additionally, there were framed lithographs of Raja Ravi Varma's artwork.
In the courtyard, there is a charming wooden temple that bears resemblance to temples found in Rajasthan. It is dedicated to the deity Krishna and is truly a sight to behold. When sitting in front of this temple, one feels completely enveloped by the presence of Krishna. This section of the courtyard is appropriately named Deoghar Chowk, which means the courtyard of the deity.
At the Family or Fountain Chowk, we entered through a door that led us to a square area with a fountain in the center. Surrounding the fountain was a corridor with a mud floor. We took a seat around the fountain and appreciated this humble yet inviting section of the Wada. It was the designated family space, where individuals would come together to share meals. I could envision the women of the family congregating here for casual conversations or to enjoy the warmth of the sun.
Kitchen Square
We entered through another doorway which led us to the final square, primarily used by the household staff. This was the location of the old kitchen. We observed a grinding stone and grooves used for pounding spices. Additionally, there was a well and a Tulsi plant present. Brightly colored Palkis were scattered throughout the area.
One intriguing aspect is a small aperture in the wall that is linked to the storage area for grains. By simply opening the window, one can retrieve the necessary grains for cooking. This could also be referred to as a service corner or the behind-the-scenes amenities for maintaining the wada.
The Murlidhar Temple can be accessed through a door located on the side of this chowk. Similar to many large wadas, this particular wada also has a personal temple that is dedicated to the family deity, which in this case is the Murlidhar temple. The temple itself features a small garbhagriha and a shikhara designed in the Nagar style. Inside the mandapa, there are numerous wooden pillars, a common sight in many temples in Nagpur. Additionally, there are small temples dedicated to Hanuman and Garuda on either side of the main temple.
Upon appreciating the inner decorations, we step outside the wada and appreciate its wooden craftsmanship. A particular corner catches our attention, showcasing a hanging piece with a peacock and parrot, which serves as a distinctive feature of the skilled woodcarvers in this place. Additionally, we notice the presence of Banana flower endings, similar to those found in the Peshwa wadas in Pune.
The higher levels of the building are linked to the external guest houses. It is possible that the colonial segment of these guest houses was utilized for entertaining or accommodating Europeans. This particular section is joined to the main wada, but it is distinct from it, serving as a division between the family zone and the guest zone.
Across from the wada, there was a garden designed in the style of Charbhag, which featured walking paths dividing it into four sections. The garden has lost some of its original charm, but I did come across a fascinating vintage handpump that is still functional.
On top of the Wada building, you have a fantastic vantage point to observe the inner courtyards and the Murlidhar temple. Additionally, you can also enjoy a panoramic view of the city that surrounds it. I happened to be there during sunset, and the uniquely shaped red tiled roofs enhanced the overall ambiance of the scene.
Throughout the years, the current owners of the Wada have attempted to incorporate contemporary amenities such as bathrooms. A portion of the Wada is utilized as an office space for different organizations. Additionally, they also offer the rental of the premises for occasions such as weddings or small gatherings. If you visit, you will notice that wooden planks are used to serve food in a traditional manner.
At the moment, the location is not accessible to the general public. In order to visit, you must get in touch with the Sh Gangadhar Rao Chitnavis Trust office. The Wada offers a heritage tour conducted by Architect Nitika Ramani, so it would be advisable to arrange the visit through her.
The amount of time required to see it varies depending on your level of interest, typically ranging from 1 to 2 hours
In the vicinity of Chitnavis Wada, there are numerous Wadas and temples that you can explore by taking a stroll through the lanes.
Other articles about Nagpur that may be of interest include "Ramtek: Traces of the Ramayana in Vidarbha," "The Lingaraja Temple in Bhubaneshwar: A Marvel of Kalinga Architecture," and "Matheran: A Charming Hill Station in Maharashtra." There are two comments on this article expressing gratitude for the valuable information and the opportunity to learn new things about Nagpur.
Your blog serves as a unique way for me to explore the world. The way you tell stories and showcase breathtaking pictures has introduced me to unknown places. Your talent in capturing the true essence of a location is truly exceptional. Please continue sharing your adventures, as they consistently fuel my desire to travel and explore!
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